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Old March 7th, 2006, 09:21 AM   #9
notched
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Location: Medford, Oregon
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TeamEvil/TC @ Mar 7 2006, 05:26 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
How come people don't weld from the back side, for strength . . .

then a light skim of filler on the front side, for looks?

Seems that it would save a lot of that grinding and stuff.
[/b][/quote]

That's a pretty good question. In this case, I have the dash cut from the Bus, obviously. So I could have done that. The main reason, I think, is access. If this were a dash in a car - any dash - you would have to weld upside down. It's really hard to do. This method would work on any hole, for example, the holes where a door handle would be. It's tough to weld inside of a door, but the outside is accesible. Best answer I can give you. Plus, like Dan said, the goal is all weld. We'll see how close I get to that in Part Two...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Nick @ Mar 7 2006, 06:20 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Excellent tech! One thing to make it slightly easier is to strip the donor sheet metal before you cut it. At least with the small pieces, easier then trying to hold down the piece from flying around when stripping it.

Also one thing to keep in mind, if you want to add gauges or switches to the dash, be aware of the spots you've patched up or it may be harder to have it flush mounted from the welding. So sometimes it maybe better to make the hole bigger on the dash then weld in a bigger piece back into the dash so the beads won't interfere with the new mounting instruments. Or if you want the entire dash smooth, it will be easier to cut off the entire dash instead of filling in dozens of smaller holes.
[/b][/quote]

I wish I would have sanded off the paint first, for that exact reason. Thanks Nick! Great point that I forgot to mention.

Great point on the new instruments! I have something cool in store for the instruments on this dash...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(speedfreak @ Mar 7 2006, 06:45 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
That answers alot of questions! thanks for the tech! so, when it comes to tacking your pieces in, and using a mig, how do you keep from blowing holes? I have my mig set on the lowest setting and my gas at 30 and I still blow holes. does the fact that the metal is older have anything to do with it? If I don't blow hole then sometimes my welds just sit on the top and don't penetrate at all. I know it has alot to do with practice and settings, but damn it starts to get frustrating after awhile.


Larry
[/b][/quote]

I am working with a Lincoln MIG welder. I think it's a Lincoln 100 - can remember exactly. It works perfect for sheet metal. On the inside of my welder, there is a great chart to determin settings for different sheet metal guage, and whether or not gas is used. I'm using 75/25 gas, and it works great. I'm using very small wire, I think its .023 - this makes a big difference in the weld. The .030 (I think that's the next size up) doesn't work well. You may try changing this. Remember to change out the tip as well.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RyanB @ Mar 7 2006, 08:09 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Awesome Phillip! Lookin great. I am too scared to use a mig on thin sheet like that so I use my O/A setup.

~Ry
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I'm hoping to get a oxygen acytelene set up soon. Gas welding is soooo much more controllable, IMHO, compared to MIG

There are two things that I haven't covered, hammer welding - just because I don't know how to do it properly. I need to learn more about it.

And using Easy Grind wire. I'm still looking for a spool of this to try.

Stay tuned for Part Two!! (Hopefully I have time this weekend!)

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(speedfreak @ Mar 7 2006, 06:45 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>how do you keep from blowing holes?[/b][/quote]

Just thought of something. Are you getting holes with only tack welds? Or a bead?
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