Effigy's history - Page 10 - Cut-Weld-Drive Forums

**tattooed_pariah** · March 19th, 2016, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by metalmaster1766

I have the cheapest set of dual carbs made, they were on the car when I got it, I sync them myself with one of those cheap carn sybcing deals, I think I paid $20 for it, they run rich, it needs jets to lean it out, but I would rather it be rich so it doesn't over heat in the summer, it starts right up when it's cold, after it's been running a while & I go to start it I hafta push the peal to the floor crank it for about 10 to 15 seconds before it fires up, but it does start, like I said it runs rich, you can see that from the end of the tail pipe being black & sooty, I haven't sync the carbs since I put the engine in 14 months ago & a few thousand miles

Ron

This particular set of carbs was bought brand new in 2002, they ran great on this engine until I cracked a head in 2008 due to a shitty exhaust..

I know they can run great again, but back then, the engine was a plain-jane 1776 with 009 distributor and points and whatnot.. now it's got full MSD ignition, higher compression ratio and bigger exhaust. Once I get it dialed in, I know it'll be fine, it's just the dialing in process that is painful.

Everyone trash talks Webers because they don't understand them, I only partially understand them, that's why I can get it running, just not running perfectly. If you know what you're doing, Webers are awesome.. someday I'll know what I'm doing :P

**V8Transporter** · March 19th, 2016, 09:14 PM

Webers are great carbs. I've tuned them on Alfa engines, Cosworth twin cam race engines, older BMWs and a few other projects. Once they are dialed in, they stay that way.

The big thing to watch out for is the crappy gas available these days.

I run a fuel treatment to absorb the moisture the ethanol leaves in the carbs if they sit for any length of time.

unclefargo · March 20th, 2016, 12:09 AM

When I was young and foolish had my duel 40 Webers set up at a dyno shop. They gave me a street setup, a power setup and a cruise setup. A quick change the of the jets took about one minute. At same time they curved the distributer. Once done it never needed adjusting.

**tattooed_pariah** · March 20th, 2016, 12:54 PM

well shit, was going to drive it to run errands today.. back to the same shit, didn't want to start..

I still think the timing is fucked or something, normally when you try and start a car and it doesn't fire up, the engine rolls over a couple of times after you stop turning the key, mine doesn't, i stop turning the key and it stops dead. like it's got something acting against it..

I have to figure out the balance between it running after it's been warmed up, and it starting cold, it seems like i tune it so it starts when cold and it runs bad when warm, and if i tune it so it runs well when warm, it doesn't want to start.

metalmaster1766 · March 24th, 2016, 09:12 PM

How are you setting the timing?

I usually set mine using a test light, then a timing light & set it so it's at 28 to 30 degrees max advanced, lock it down & that's it

I took it for a short drive today, runs strong as can be, only the 3ed time this year, my knees are so swollen I can barely get in & out of it, I do need to adjust the valves & check the timing & change the oil now that spring is here

Good luck, I hope you get the bugs worked out of it

Ron

**tattooed_pariah** · March 25th, 2016, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by metalmaster1766

How are you setting the timing?

I usually set mine using a test light, then a timing light & set it so it's at 28 to 30 degrees max advanced, lock it down & that's it

I took it for a short drive today, runs strong as can be, only the 3ed time this year, my knees are so swollen I can barely get in & out of it, I do need to adjust the valves & check the timing & change the oil now that spring is here

Good luck, I hope you get the bugs worked out of it

Ron

I'm using a digital timing light so can see the exact rpms and degrees on the gun itself..

This week has been shit. Crazy busy at work and my primary hard drive took a shit monday, i'm hoping to have time to reformat it and reinstall windows this weekend..

metalmaster1766 · March 25th, 2016, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tattooed_pariah

I'm using a digital timing light so can see the exact rpms and degrees on the gun itself..

This week has been shit. Crazy busy at work and my primary hard drive took a shit monday, i'm hoping to have time to reformat it and reinstall windows this weekend..

I have an old timing light, think I bought it at a flea market in 1986, the kind you hafta stick a paper clip inside the #1 plug wire on the cap, I did have an old cheap dash mount tachometer I used, but it feel & broke years ago, I just guess now

I know nothing about a primary hard drives, if it would take a shit on me I wouldn't know except for "somethings wrong with my computer" then I'd hafta save my pennies & buy a new computer

Ron

**V8Transporter** · March 26th, 2016, 08:13 AM

I have one of those big old chrome Craftsman timing lights. There's a plastic goodie with a wire that clamps over the plug wire.

Then there's my old Tach/dwell meter. I think I bought them abut the same time in the late seventies or early eighties.

The Single Cab is running a bit rough so it looks like it's tune up time.

**tattooed_pariah** · April 11th, 2016, 03:28 PM

Finally got some time and pulled my tubes.. I was running 2.00 A/C's and 1.30 Mains.. switched those out with 1.15 mains, tried cranking for a few minutes but now my battery is running down from all the cranking with no firing. gonna have to pull the speakers and seat again to recharge the battery..

will do that another day.

**tattooed_pariah** · April 11th, 2016, 03:54 PM

It has the standard pump jet diaprams and pump jets, no chokes.

**tattooed_pariah** · April 12th, 2016, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whozawhat

pumps and jets are in good shape? do you pump it when you try to start it?

yeah, i turn on the fuel pump (holley red, regulated down to 3.5-4psi..), give it about 10 pumps, crank about 30 seconds, a couple of pumps, crank, so on and so on..

**tattooed_pariah** · April 16th, 2016, 01:57 PM

god damnit, haha why do I keep fucking with shit?

So I found a shop in Virginia Beach (The Bug House) and went and visited them today.. Think I'm gonna rent a small pick up and tow the bug there monday since I have the day off. I'm tired of constantly tweaking shit, I just want it reliable like it was about a decade ago..

In the meantime, i went out in the garage today, got it to fire up and run, running rough though, so at least I'm not bringing them a "non-starter".. decided to swap out my front turn signals while I was out there.

Was previously running little motorcycle turn signals that had bulbs in them. Bought some nifty little skull turn signals with LEDs.. swapped em out, didn't work, then I remembered that with LEDs you need a diode to prevent the current from backtracking the system. So I went and bought a couple of diodes and wired them in on the positive wire.. still no worky. Shit.

Right now my brake lights work fine, but no turns and no emergency flashers. When I use the turns, whichever side I'm switching on kills that side tail light.

But headlights work, tail ligts work and brake lights work, so fuck it, i'm back to hand signals until I get it sorted out.

cretin · April 16th, 2016, 03:05 PM

Every time I get one of those wild hair up the ass ideas, it's a terrible idea.

**tattooed_pariah** · April 17th, 2016, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whozawhat

I have had LEDs' that are not wired like you think they would be, the red wire was - and the black wire was +, they would not work wired the other way

I tested these ones by touching the red to + and black to - of a car battery that was in my garage, they lit up.

Iunno, i'll fuck with it more when I get it back from the shop. :/

**Badsamone** · April 18th, 2016, 01:09 PM

With LEDs you need to have a resistor in parallel with then. Check with your local parts store they should be able to steer you right

**Badsamone** · April 18th, 2016, 01:44 PM

I just checked what I used. They are 50 watt 6 ohm resistors. You need one for each light. They are wired just like the light one side to pos and the other to neg. can get them at Amazon

**tattooed_pariah** · April 18th, 2016, 02:39 PM

this is what I was looking at doing.. currently there is a diode on the positive wire..

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...-Turn-Signal-/

**tattooed_pariah** · April 18th, 2016, 04:18 PM

I've got a stock flasher relay.. :/

**tattooed_pariah** · April 30th, 2016, 04:51 AM

So I got a call back from the bug house last night..

Said the did a compression test and found #3 only had 40lbs of compression..

They think the problem is in the head and not the rings. I'm hoping it is.. I'm debating on if I want them to do what they need to do to mess with the head, or just bite the bullet and tell them to tear it down and rebuild it.

**SCOTTRODS** · April 30th, 2016, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tattooed_pariah

So I got a call back from the bug house last night..

Said the did a compression test and found #3 only had 40lbs of compression..

They think the problem is in the head and not the rings. I'm hoping it is.. I'm debating on if I want them to do what they need to do to mess with the head, or just bite the bullet and tell them to tear it down and rebuild it.

Ouch... The Dreaded #3... You can Hope, I guess... but I call Piston Damage the problem without seeing anything. Especially from all the stuff you've shared.

**V8Transporter** · April 30th, 2016, 11:25 AM

Back in the old days the exhaust valve on the #3 cylinder would be the culprit. But I've also seen piston damage. Looks like one way or another you're going to have them pull the head, and then go from there.

**tattooed_pariah** · April 30th, 2016, 01:04 PM

Yeah, I think the current plan is going to be pulling the head and seeing what we can see.

A little frustrating if it is something wrong with the head.. They have about a thousand miles on them and I bought them from Brother's VW when I was still in Riverside..

I think that if it winds up not being the head, or there is more significant damage requiring a rebuild, I may just start buying the rest of the parts i need for my 2276 instead..

I'm already $500 into diagnosing this 1776. If fixing it is going to run me more than $1500, then it makes sense to me to put it on the back burner and instead spend about $2200 for the rest of the parts I need. (that number includes a pro-street rancho tranny)

cretin · April 30th, 2016, 01:25 PM

Yup. Old motor bad, make new bigger motor.

**tattooed_pariah** · May 1st, 2016, 10:57 AM

Yeah, I'm leaning more and more towards getting the 2276 built..

started trying to list things this morning:

Have New:
AS41 Case - 94mm holes, clearanced for stroke, fully drilled and tapped for full flow oil
Steve Tims Stage II Heads
4340 82mm CW Crankshaft
12lb Flywheel
Bearings
Dual Weber 48IDFs
26mm oil pump
deep sump

Have from the 1776:
external oil filter/cooler
90amp Alternator
MSD 6AL Ignition
MSD Distributor
MSD Coil
most cooling tin (fan shroud, cynlider heads, things under and between the cylinders)
Jaycee oil cooler block off, fuel pump block off, springloaded pushrod tubes, and magnetic sump plate
Sync Link throttle linkage

Need to buy:
P&Cs
conrods
cam
cam gear
lifters
rockers
pushrods

P&Cs (VW9400T1SJE) $390 (ACN)
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-...vw9400t1sf.htm
ConRods $300 (ACN)
4340 Forged Chromoly H-beam, ARP Rod bolts, balanced
Cam $100 (ACN)
Thinking FK89, but not sure
Pauter 1.4 Roller Rockers $500 (CB)
Manton Chromoly Dual Tapered $170 (ACN)
MAYBE Udo Becker lifters $400 (ACN)

I'm sure there's a lot fo nickel and dime things i didn't write here, like I have a $30 hardware bag that should have all the nuts and bolts for the brand new case, but I'll probably be buying new pushrod and sump plate seals (magnetic plate uses o-rings..) etc..

all in all, i think it might be almost the same amount of money to fix the 1776 as it would be to finish the 2276..

**tattooed_pariah** · June 17th, 2016, 10:06 AM

So it's been a busy ass month or so...

They pulled the one head, found no damage at all, put it back together and it was fine. Replaced my MSD plug wires with Flamethrower 8mm wires because apparently my plug wire on #3 was bad..

And I didn't realize until I was halfway home that they broke my windshield.

I didn't feel like arguing about whether it broke in their custody or while I was driving, so I said fuck it and just went home.. It's had a massive crack since like 2006 anyway, so it's been needing a replacement..

Wife and I decided that we'd rather pay a mortage than continue paying $1400/mo rent.. so we set out to buy a house and try and keep the mortage under a grand.. wound up finding a house we both love that's going to run about $1450/mo with taxes and insurance... so much for saving money, lol.

We should be closing on it on the 30th.

She's in the hopsital right now for a surgery, should be home sunday or monday. Everything went well and she's recuperating fine.

I took three weeks of leave to care for her while she recuperates before we were looking for a house, so now I may wind up convienently on leave and moving by myself since she won't be able to help :P

Car has been running ok. it's rough when it first starts, but once it's warmed up it's not bad, still pops a bit occassionally, but it's significantly better than it was on 3 cylinders :P

Now I'm off to go have lunch with my coworkers, one is detaching today and getting stationed in Japan, so we're having a going away luncheon..