Effigy's history

[V8Transporter]

Are those plugs all the same number/heat range?

[tattooed_pariah]

Originally Posted by V8Transporter

Are those plugs all the same number/heat range?

probably not, which kinda pisses me off.. i always buy NGK's and they threw Bosch's in there..

[V8Transporter]

I run Bosch plugs in all four bikes, and the Single Cab. They have worked really well for me. Whatever mfg. you choose, a set of mis-matched plugs won't do you any good.

[tattooed_pariah]

So I think either A) I SEVERLY fucked up building this.. or B) I'm screwing up measuring my deck height now..

heads are 58cc. deck heights seem to be:

1: 2.005
2: 2.032
3: 2.019
4: 2.005

Which, using the CB engine calculator means I have a CR of about 2.2:1

I didn't even think an engine could run with that low of a CR?

P&C #1


Chamber #1


P&C #2


Chamber #2


P&C #3


Chamber #3


P&C #4


Chamber #4


Deck Height Tool thickness:


#1 deck height



I subtracted the tool thickness from each reading to get the above numbers..

My guess to fix this is to turn down the cylinders?

[tattooed_pariah]

current guestimates are that I have a set of B pistons installed..

I think I bought these P&C's when I was still in San Diego back in 2010.. if this is true that I have the wrong pistons, I guess that would explain all the troubles I've had trying to get this thing to run right..

[cretin]

I can't say I've ever only changed the "bad plugs."

[tattooed_pariah]

Originally Posted by whozawhat

You are correct, your measuring is all f'd up,
it would not have
"car was running GREAT, was loving it, nice to be back in my VR again.."
in Aug of 2014 if it only had 2.2 CR.
Looking closely at your picture your deck height measurements look to me like the tool is .449 INCH thick, the deck measurement looks like .658 INCH, do the math is .209 INCH, convert the number to metric it is 5.3086 MM, on a 1776CC engine and the CB calculator your compression should be 5.8:1, it would run at that but only fair, from the looks of your pictures it has been drowning in fuel.

yeah i realized my decimal was one spot off while playing hockey last night but forgot to come change it when i got home..

Originally Posted by cretin

I can't say I've ever only changed the "bad plugs."

same assholes charged me $40 for pertronix bright yellow plug wires because my red MSD wires "were bad"..

[V8Transporter]

Was your hockey game affected by the decimal being one off?

[tattooed_pariah]

lol, no, but I've been laughing about how stupid the whole situation is ever since I discovered why I haven't been able to get it running right in like 7 years...

I mean shit, seriously? specs call for 4 to 6 hundredths and I had 2 tenths! lol, how the fuck did I ever have it running at all?

[V8Transporter]

Considering the above, just think how terrifically well she'l run when you get her set up right!

[tattooed_pariah]

Originally Posted by V8Transporter

Considering the above, just think how terrifically well she'l run when you get her set up right!

no shit! and this whole time i've been thinknig what a shitty vw guy i am that I can't get the carb tuning or timing, or ANYTHING running right... I'd say I was doing pretty god damned good to have it running as well as it was given the circumstances.. lol

[tequilla]

Took me about 1.5 years to get my Turbo motor to first idle and then run right. Tuning was a pain in the Ass when the Carb is three feet away from the heads Looks Crazy Kool though.

Matt, I think I shaved a few years off of your struggles because I built my engine sober

[tattooed_pariah]

Originally Posted by tequilla

Took me about 1.5 years to get my Turbo motor to first idle and then run right. Tuning was a pain in the Ass when the Carb is three feet away from the heads Looks Crazy Kool though.

Matt, I think I shaved a few years off of your struggles because I built my engine sober

lol, i was joking with friends that I can buy new P&Cs, get some headwork done and maybe turn the cylinders down and try to get as high a compression as I can (probably only 8.8:1 or so..) or I can leave it at 5.5:1 and drop $3,000 on a big turbo.. hahaha

[tequilla]

I can't remember but I set my compression at 7.1 or 7.2 I was trying to build the motor to live not to be fast

[tattooed_pariah]

Got paid, paid all currently due bills (I expect a couple more within the week..) and ordered new AA piston's and cylinders meant for a 69mm stroke..

have a shopping cart ready to purchase from JayCee and another one waiting for purchase from CB Performance.. Just gotta make sure I have the cash to cover before I pull the trigger.. I may wait until my mid February paycheck on those..

Jaycee is $200+ for:
- mag-plate o-ring kits (two because it's always good to have a spare.. the o-rings in my sump plate are the originals from when I bought the plate kit like 4 years ago.. it's not leaking yet, but it's only $10 each so why not replace em..)
- one of their tapered ring compressors for 90.5 P&Cs because I imagine that will be a LOT easier than the shitty compression ring thing I have now, which I always wind up throwing on the bench and carefully pushing the rings into position using a scribe anyway..
- billet 7" street pulley with engraved timing marks so I can finally ditch my oem steel pulley with timing "notches" that are almost im-friggin-possible to see even after painting them with some old gold colored nail polish the wife was gonna throw away..
- and a broached pulley bolt with billet hat so it'll look pretty :P

from CB I'm finally getting something I had open on my browser screen for like 6 months before closing the tab like 5 months ago... http://www.cbperformance.com/product...6.htm?CartID=1

what looks to be a really nifty wideband sensor/gauge kit.. hopefully I can figure this thing out and REALLY dial in my carbs.. I've got a pretty decent collection of various sizes of jets since I spent so damn long trying to tune 5.9:1CR.. so hopefully I can get this thing roaring..

[tattooed_pariah]

Got my JayCee order in today.. new pulley and bolt look sooo much better than the shit I had...

P&Cs are expected to arrive Wednesday..

[V8Transporter]

Well, that definitely added to the 'impression ratio.'

[tattooed_pariah]

alright.. got it running.. not running well, but running..

-new plugs
-new distributor cap
-new rotor
-cleaned and rebuilt both carbs

set up:
-7.5 degrees advance (static set)
-mixture screws 2 turns out

started up fine, idling a little high (around 1400rpms), turned the screws in quarter turn at a time until it sounded best.. 3/4 side ran best at about 1 turn out. 1/2 side had no change.

got my snail meter out, 3/4 side is about 10, 1/2 is maxed out at 30 gotta figure that out I guess..

tried to hook up my timing light to mess with that a bit, put the one connector on plug wire #1, connected the negative side of coil, tried to connect the positive wire on coil and it spit sparks at me and sounded like it wanted to die..

I know the casing on the coil was crushed a little by my clamp, I did an ohms check and it seemed like it was ok, but maybe it's internally shorted now..

any ideas?

[tattooed_pariah]

Originally Posted by whozawhat

don't put the neg. on the coil it will mess with the ignition system ground it anywhere else.

I've always done it off the coil.. but I did try hooking up the positive first and touching the negative to a bare spot on the apron, it sparked there..

I just went back out and hit the coil with my multimeter

primary: .9ohms
secondary: 4.4k ohms

for shits and giggles I dug my old Flamethrower coil out of a storage bin:

primary: 3.6ohms
secondary: 8.9k ohms


looks like the MSD Blaster 2 has a bad secondary and the Flamethrower has a bad primary.. damnit! haha

I think I'm gonna throw some money at a high vibration Blaster, same exact specs as the Blaster 2, only a sturdier case and filling..

Also, I slipped the linkage cable under the coil mount on accident, effectively making the route the cable travelled further than it was by about a third of an inch or so, which is what was screwing up my snail readings.. the passenger side carb was at part throttle at all times.. I gotta move that cable back where it was so the length is right, then it should be fine..

[tattooed_pariah]

another weekend goes by and no progress made... well , that's not true..

The little step that stops the square bolt head from spinning on my negative battery cable had gotten chewed up, so I bought a new cable with a secondary lead on it.

Going to replace the positive cable with one with a secondary lead as well, so I can "permanently" wire in the plug for my trigger charger. That was I won't have to lift the back seat if the battery gets low, I can check the voltage and trickle charge it through the connector.

New MSD coil and plug wires are scheduled to be here tuesday, but tracking says they arrived in Roanoke, VA at like 4 this morning, so maybe they'll show up monday instead..

Once I get those in, I can get to work checking timing and tuning the carbs..

[tattooed_pariah]

Originally Posted by whozawhat

don't ground the timing light to the new coil or you may need another new coil sooner than you think

that's what everyone was saying a couple of weeks ago.. but it's the first i'm ever hearing of that.. all my life i've always done it and always been told to do it that way.. not saying I don't believe you all, just that it's new info to me..

[V8Transporter]

I'm confused as to why you'd ground the timing light's ground wire 'to the coil,' unless you mean the bolt holding the coil mount to the engine as a grounding point.

[V8Transporter]

Ah, gotcha.' I'd never heard of clipping the timing light's ground to the coil terminal, and thought that I was missing some new and unfamiliar high tech trick.

[tattooed_pariah]

Originally Posted by V8Transporter

I'm confused as to why you'd ground the timing light's ground wire 'to the coil,' unless you mean the bolt holding the coil mount to the engine as a grounding point.

no, I've always used the negative side of the coil itself..

Originally Posted by whozawhat

Two coils that you had in stock were both toast, why?
First lets look at the timing light, power cable has a Pos. and Neg. and a pick up lead. Pos. is self explanatory put it on a + 12 v source, (we are talking 12v systems here) the pickup cable either goes inline with #1 plug or clamps over #1 lead if using an inductive type timing light.
Now the Neg. terminal IDEALLY would connect to the Neg. at the battery, however any SUITABLE ground will do. The coil Neg. terminal is not one of the suitable grounds. The terminal itself is not a ground at the coil but rather post to attach a points wire, the opening and closing of breaker points controls when the post on the coil receives a ground. The opening of the points removes the ground from the post at the coil, this is how the coil winding collapses the magnetic field around the other windings. This will cause the timing light only have a ground with points closed and any backfeeding off a ground through the timing light may mess with the coil. Also if your timing light is sparking excessively when you connect the ground it may indicate a problem with the light, like a short, connecting that to the coil would not make it a happy little dubdub

both my bad coils have dented casings, so I assumed that the dents were bad enough to cause the wrapped material inside to touch itself..

I haven't used points in at least a decade, but I understand what you mean..

like I said, i wasn't saying you all were wrong, just that no one has ever told me that before. learn something new everyday..

[tattooed_pariah]

gonna use the rear apron as a grounding point since I have one of those aluminum fuel pump cover/coil holder brackets...