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Old April 29th, 2005, 12:28 PM   #26
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I work for ERA cobra and I build the GT-40 bodies out of glass and carbon fiber. We use a sandwich of glass, carbon, glass, carbon, and glass with high thixotropic (sp?) polyester resin on the roof section for added strength. (with polyester resin you have to sandwich the carbon, or else it will shear. You need to use epoxy resin for carbon only) I'm planning on doing the hood, decklid, and possibly doors out of glass on the beetle I'm getting soon. I want to try and use clear resin and add just a few drops of black gel coat to give it a slight tint and make a see-through, smoked decklid. Dont know if it will work but I'm gonna try it [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img] I'm going to use a wussy diesel engine so I need all the weight savings I can get
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Old April 29th, 2005, 01:02 PM   #27
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I still have it. I have over 300hp to the rear wheels. Full 3'' exhaust, no cats or air pump, intake, IC, 14psi boost, pettit computer, fluidyne radiator, ACT clutch, alloy flywheel, short shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, Eibach springs, brembo front breaks, RE sleeklights, 99 jspec frontend ......bla,bla,bla. I use it for autocross in the ASP class.
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Old April 30th, 2005, 01:34 AM   #28
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How about some pointer on fitting a fibreglass voal into a chopped car, how do i bond between the metal and glass? where should i cut the car/ window & how do i make it look convincing.


A full blown tutorial would be ideal, if you have five minutes to spare [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]




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Old April 30th, 2005, 04:14 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top_Fuel_Thomas@Apr 30 2005, 01:34 AM
How about some pointer on fitting a fibreglass voal into a chopped car, how do i bond between the metal and glass? where should i cut the car/ window & how do i make it look convincing.


A full blown tutorial would be ideal, if you have five minutes to spare [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]




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<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
to bond fiberglass to metal, scuff the metal with a 24 grit grinding disc so it has a very rough finish. Scuff the fiberglass the same way and bond them together with Hull and Deck puddy. its a very thick mixture of fine glass, resin, thickening agents, and some even have a little sand in them. The right ull and deck puddy is awesome, but theres also some crappy ones out there.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 08:04 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top_Fuel_Thomas@Apr 30 2005, 05:34 AM
How about some pointer on fitting a fibreglass voal into a chopped car, how do i bond between the metal and glass? where should i cut the car/ window & how do i make it look convincing.


A full blown tutorial would be ideal, if you have five minutes to spare [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]




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<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
Assuming a "voal" is actually something you would want to bond to your rod [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] , busguy71 has it pretty good. Scuff up both mating surfaces good. I use a 36 grit wheel on my 90. Watch it when you scuff the composite. Only try to scuff it where you will be adding the adhesive. You don't want to expose any cut fibers that will not get covered up again with the adhesive.

I am not familiar with the Hull and Deck Putty, but using the laminating resin (epoxy or polyester) with a bunch of filler to make it thick enough not to run out of the joint is all you need. You can chop up a bunch of the glass fiber to use as filler or buy some micro-balloons or other fillers. I like the milled cotton fiber fillers if you can find them.

Another adhesive that works really good for bonding on composite parts to sheet metal is the urethane windshield adhesives. They are plenty strong enough, seal out water really well, and stay a little bit flexible which reduces stress concentrations in the joint and stresses due to the different thermal expansion rates of the composite and steel parts.

What is a voal? Must be like bonnet, wings, and boot...only car parts in Britian. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 08:16 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaransonT3@May 2 2005, 08:04 AM
What is a voal? Must be like bonnet, wings, and boot...only car parts in Britian. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I think if you take a voal and flip a couple of letters you get an......


OVAL!
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 08:37 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by hotrodheb+May 2 2005, 12:16 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hotrodheb @ May 2 2005, 12:16 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-jaransonT3@May 2 2005, 08:04 AM
What is a voal? Must be like bonnet, wings, and boot...only car parts in Britian. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I think if you take a voal and flip a couple of letters you get an......


OVAL!
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
[/b][/quote]

AAHHH! That makes sense. duh-oh! I even did a Google search and came up with nothing. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]

In that case I would do things a little different since you are trying to bond two different thickness materials that will share a common outer surface.

Step 1 -

Trim up the composite OVAL section to something that has nice straight edges and round off the corners. You want to avoid sharp corners with composites.

Step 2 -

Cut a hole in the sheetmetal roof that is 1" smaller in all dimensions than the compsite OVAL section.

Step 3 -

Fit the OVAL section in from the inside of the car and mark the sheetmetal opening onto the compsoite OVAL section. You should have a line drawn around the OVAL section about 1" in from the edge.

Step 4 -

Now get out your 90 and grind back the 1" border a couple of millimeters. You are trying to reduce the thickness of the OVAL section a bit more than the thickness of the sheetmetal roof. Grind it from the outer surface so that when you are done and you fit the OVAL section back into the opening the surface are flush and you have a small gap between the composite section the the sheelmetal.

Step 5 -

After you get the border all thinned out, flip the OVAL section over and grind a nice chamfer on the edge of the part. Try to get a nice feather edge that blends in about 1/2" or so.

Step 6 -

Now you are ready to glue it in. Mix up a nice thick paste of filled epoxy or polyester and put a nice bead of it all around the perimeter of the OVAL section and fit it in place and hold it there with lots of duct tape or bracing or something until it cures.

Step 7 -

After it cures go back on the inside and add a layer or two of fiberglass and resin over the inner joint and onto the roof. The outer side sould be jsut about flush. Just body work tis like any other joint with a bit of grinding and filling.

There you go. Step by step how I would add the section in. I wouldnt use the urethane adhesive for this application since it is a finished joint on the outside.

HTH
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 11:02 AM   #33
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Mr. J. -- I have a fiberglass, er, whatever the proper name is, Type 3 front end, and need to make some repairs to it. I have one hole, and also lots of areas where the top coating has chipped off (mainly on corners), and the fibers are exposed.

And last, this was purchased used, and the PO cut part of the nice edge off on the wheel opening. Any way to repair this, without the mold? Maybe I could make a small one from a metal fender? Not sure how to join the two?
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 11:14 AM   #34
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You can re-gelcoat areas then sand/buff once cured. With holes, there are several ways to patch them. One way is to taper the hole area (like a volcanoe cone shaped), mask the top side (outside) to minimize exces sanding then from the other side (the ugly side, non-gelcoated) start laying fiberglass onto the hole. Start with a round shape about the same size of the hole, then keep adding on fiberglass material that's slightly bigger then the last. Repeat until it's completely filled then add a few extra layers bigger then the hole itself for addes supprt.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 11:41 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by notched@May 2 2005, 03:02 PM
Mr. J. -- I have a fiberglass, er, whatever the proper name is, Type 3 front end, and need to make some repairs to it. I have one hole, and also lots of areas where the top coating has chipped off (mainly on corners), and the fibers are exposed.

And last, this was purchased used, and the PO cut part of the nice edge off on the wheel opening. Any way to repair this, without the mold? Maybe I could make a small one from a metal fender? Not sure how to join the two?
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
Nick's suggested method for the holes is a good one. Just grind most of the taper from the back side to keep the amount of body work on the outside to a minimum. I like to feather a little bit from the top side so you can add a layer of glass mat on the outside and capture the hole edge between new composite material.

For the chips in the gelcoat, you can re-gelcoat them as NIck suggested or simply brush a little resin in each one to seal it up and then body work it with filler like any other small chip. This second method assumes that you are going to paint the compsite part, not leave a gelcoat finish.

As for the missing fender piece, you are probable best making a small mold. Just use the front opposite side edge ofender opening to make your mold. make the mold bigger then you need so it can index off of the remaining composite shape.

Clamp the mold to the fender and start laying glass in form the back side. For a stronger joint.... after it all cures, go back in with your grinder and and featehr out the seam on the outside surface and laminate in a leayer or two of composite. Then body work it.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 12:04 PM   #36
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Thanks for the info. I know nothing about fiberglass. Can I buy gelcoat?

And I get the basic idea of adding pieces, but can I use cloth, instead of the individual pieces of blown in material like the original?

My main concern is to not add a double thick layer where material is added. Can I sand it thinner on the backside first, and then add the overlapping material?
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 12:20 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by notched@May 2 2005, 04:04 PM
Thanks for the info. I know nothing about fiberglass. Can I buy gelcoat?

And I get the basic idea of adding pieces, but can I use cloth, instead of the individual pieces of blown in material like the original?

My main concern is to not add a double thick layer where material is added. Can I sand it thinner on the backside first, and then add the overlapping material?
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
You can use cloth, but I would recommend chopped mat instead. It is cheaper and the random orientation of the fibers will make it match the chopper gun applied original material better The chopped mat is basically chopped up fiber that is held together with a small amount of (usually thermoplastic} binder.

You can even pull it apart a little around the edges to taper the patch a little.

Yes, sand or grind it thinner (the tapering or feathering that was mentioned earlier does this) from the back side first and then build up to the orgininal thickness with progressively bigger patches. I would recommend one extra layer on the back to make sure you get the patch over good original material.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 01:05 PM   #38
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For those really intersted in getting into fiberglass, I recommend this book:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=books&n=507846

I read it a few times back in the days and helped alot to explain how and why figberlass works and techniques, etc
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