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Old May 1st, 2005, 06:04 PM   #1
pistolpete76
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i just checked my 135's up front. as you know i havent had them long, but ive got some wicked wearing going on. the wearing is favoring the outside of the tire. you know the tread blocks...well picture each one of those blocks having a lip created on the inner edges of them, and worn down nearly flat on the outer edges.
i know i was expected to go threw tires pretty quick being so low but this seems like something i can tweak to get more miles out of it. my toe in when i last did it was no more then 1/8" to 1/4" and im wondering if i should mess with the spacers on the link pins, to aim the top of the tire in more to allow more tread to lay evenly on the road, what do you reckon? i do corner somewhat hard and i still get headlight bucket rubbing a bit aswell. I think i've already shot these tires so me thinking the wifes not going to be happy when i tell her i gotta spend $120 every 2 months to drive it.

also i have heard that a lot of tire shop dont wont to mess with vw's especially stupid low ones, (i dont half blame them) but i hwas half thinking showing them the tire to get some input on me doing some adjustments might work?

with my hot rear wheel deal, its the brakes for sure, i checked my lines and i have some good swelling on one. i drove the car on the freeway and stuff today and i got home i had smoke pooring out of the center of the drum, oh boy was it hot, i jacked it up and couldnt turn the wheel, let it cool down, tried it again and the wheel spun fine. tomorrow i am getting new lines and wheel cylinders too, fingers crossed i dont have this problem anymore.
I did notice that this only started happening when i bleed the brakes all round when i put the drums on front
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Old May 1st, 2005, 06:33 PM   #2
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think maybe the front tire wear could be alot of positive camber??? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Idunno.gif[/img]
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Old May 1st, 2005, 06:46 PM   #3
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Pete. do you have shocks in the front?
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Old May 1st, 2005, 07:15 PM   #4
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1/4 inch toe in is too much I would think, ya might want to verify what ya got. I'm also on the same page as Nickster...sounds like you mave have some "tire hop" either due to no or bad shocks or bad wheel balance. Camber should be pretty close to straight up and down. You guys go to messin' with stuff ya gotta pay the price..... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
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Old May 1st, 2005, 07:21 PM   #5
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1/8 to 1/4" ?


How are you measuring this ? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Idunno.gif[/img]
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Old May 1st, 2005, 07:23 PM   #6
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i got no shocks up front, what i noticed a lot with the springmeet trip was when i went over the metal sections on bridges or hit the thick white paint on the roads i would here a little skid from the fronts. so maybe i need some weight on the front? now that i think of it, i definately set the toe in at an 1/8" but i will check that again now that i have driven it a while and check if my wheels are leaning out at all.
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Old May 1st, 2005, 07:24 PM   #7
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ian, i measured the toe in from the inside edges of the tires and set them so the measurement at the front of the car was 1/8" less the the rear measurement
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Old May 1st, 2005, 07:28 PM   #8
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I would recommend shocks.....they help keep the tire from jumping up and down as you travel down the road....they don't put 'em on just for looks. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]
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Old May 1st, 2005, 07:35 PM   #9
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Pete, install front shocks! Make sure you get the correct ones for a lowered car!
I think KYB makes the right ones? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Idunno.gif[/img]
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Old May 1st, 2005, 07:52 PM   #10
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Pete,
I don't know how you were able to measure the toe in on your car,accurately, without jacking it up. And if you did jack it up you were not getting a correct reading. it really sounds like a toe in issue to me. I use 2 pieces of 1" square tubing that bungi corded to the front tires with a couple of feet sticking out in front of the car. That will allow you to get an accurate measurement. If the fenders get in the way you will have to use spacers( like a 2x4) to space the tubes out far enough. Too much toe in along with too much positive camber will raise havoc with tires.
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Old May 1st, 2005, 08:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by NICKSTER@May 1 2005, 07:35 PM
Pete, install front shocks! Make sure you get the correct ones for a lowered car!
I think KYB makes the right ones? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Idunno.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>


he can't!!! he's got no shock towers!!! i can't imagine shocks would make a difference anyway. would they?









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Old May 1st, 2005, 08:54 PM   #12
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it sounds like you have positive camber and may be caused by one if not more isssues such as bent beam , bent control arm or incorrect off set

check this website hope that helps.
http://www.historicvws.abelgratis.com/tech...l/king_pins.htm
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Old May 1st, 2005, 09:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by p-nor@May 1 2005, 08:17 PM
he can't!!! he's got no shock towers!!! i can't imagine shocks would make a difference anyway. would they?
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
Of course they do. They don't just slow the car when bouncing around, they keep the tyre in contact with the road.

The skids Pete heard was the tyre jumping off the roading and landing.
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Old May 1st, 2005, 11:00 PM   #14
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pete, you need to have 1/16 to 1/8" max toe in!
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 04:48 AM   #15
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the last time i did my toe in was setting up a elaborate frame of 2 by 4's around the tires, just because i could even get my arm under the car. as far as shocks go, there isnt no where to bolt them anymore. looks like i've gone and f'd things up
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 06:06 AM   #16
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Pete,
You may have alignments problems but you gotta have Shocks! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img]
What you have described on the tire sounds like what we call cupping. That is caused by worn shocks. I realize you have no place left to mount them but if you don't want to sacrifice tires to the Volksrod gods on a regular basis you need to find some way to dampen the up and down movement of the front tires. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cry.gif[/img]
Time to get creative! (maybe some kind of elbow shock)

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Old May 2nd, 2005, 06:27 AM   #17
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i still have my lower shock mounts, to put top ones on i could make a bracket inside the hood that goes threw the inner fender walls to allow me to bolt them on.

i agree with you guys that step one is having too much toe in, the way the tread is flared up at the front and inner edge shows that the tires are getting pushed across the tread pattern instead of parrallel with it. after being told so many different measurements for toe in, im going with 1/16th this time. because aligning every two weeks to suit the latest measurement is crap.

im going to check my camber too, im really thinking my tires are leaning out and this could be the case having these drums come from another car, i dont know what wheels he was running therefor what offset the link pin spacers were set too.

so plenty to keep me busy, good thing cause i was bored sitting around with nothing to do [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rollingeyes.gif[/img] not!


word to the wise, dont get rid of your high tech reliable Nissan to drive a bug daily, it just doesnt work! an example was i had no choice but to drive it to work today even with my rear drum smoking like a chimney, just because theres no time in the day to fix it, i then have to drive it along nearly an hour of freeway to get to the bug parts stroe just to get the parts to fix it, then try and bumb rush it over night so i can drive to work at 6.30am!

i now know that if you drive a bug you either have 2 cars or your a broke ass bum
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 09:11 AM   #18
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my roadster has custom mounts in the stock location u could prolly make some shorts ones then the stock height, then u'd just need to find the right size shock
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 04:38 PM   #19
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I would say its almost all an alignment problem.
I think you have a LP right Pete ?
I imagine theres some room for adjustment in the shims for the chamber, but I have never messed with the LP ft. ends I always left them as is.

I know they sell even more ecentric bushings for balljoints to help solve this problem....

The other problem to consider is that 135's suck, I mean really suck. They wear out really quick. I hate them and hope to never run them again but they still shouldn't have worn this quick.

I think its gonna be a completley do it your self hobby here eventually so I thin we all gotta get good at alignments....
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 05:41 PM   #20
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Pete,
Look in your fender well and locate the welds that are there to hold the box tubing for the gas tank mount. That's a good spot to mount some shock mounts.

Weld in some upside down 'L' brackets with a hole drilled in the top. I've seen them braced as well. then get a set of ball-joint front end shocks--- they've got a non-eyelet mount-- they should do the trick. If the shock never bottoms out, I can't imagine it'd tweak the body at all. Run some cheapy hydro shocks.

I saw this on Lowlife, I'll see if I can dig the pics up. I was planning on doing that for my 65 street bug, but I'm probably going to just eventyally go with an IRS setup.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 05:55 PM   #21
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Pete, my 135's are wearing outside too attached to my 4" narrowed beam. I adjusted my carrier shims to get more camber. I'm at the minimum offset allowed on the factory spec sheet (something like 5 or 5.5). I run shocks even. From what several people have told me, it looks like no matter what I'm gonna have positive camber by the looks of things. I never had my car pro-aligned, but have it about 1/8" off and still get tire chirp. I wonder if the beam is just off slightly.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 06:15 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by pistolpete76@May 1 2005, 10:04 PM


with my hot rear wheel deal, its the brakes for sure, i checked my lines and i have some good swelling on one. i drove the car on the freeway and stuff today and i got home i had smoke pooring out of the center of the drum, oh boy was it hot, i jacked it up and couldnt turn the wheel, let it cool down, tried it again and the wheel spun fine. tomorrow i am getting new lines and wheel cylinders too, fingers crossed i dont have this problem anymore.
I did notice that this only started happening when i bleed the brakes all round when i put the drums on front
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
Your hot rear wheel should be cured by installing the new wheel cylinders like you said and possibly new brake shoes. I had the same thing happen with my 56 bug on the right front. The brake shoes where worn and the wheel cylinder was over extended which in turn locked the shoes to the drum. If your wallet permits, I would even have the drum turned while you have it all apart and replace the rubber lines with braided stainless lines. You will definatly feel the difference.
Good luck with it. .......Tim
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 07:00 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by NICKSTER@May 1 2005, 10:46 PM
Pete. do you have shocks in the front?
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
is it better to have shocks.. yes. however in the imediate not nessasary to correct this issue.

we get the hop at low speeds because there isnt the air pressure on the font of the car. once we are moving its ok (like upper 2nd gear)

sounds like camber is fucke up to me.... dont know how to fix it

oh but make sure tire pressure is proper
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 09:16 PM   #24
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i havent dived into the front yet, but i just got done working on the rear wheel problem, i install 2 new GERMAN wheel cylinders and new brake hoses.
man the hoses were so f'd up, the have bumps and all sorts of swelling on them, wehen i took them off the hard line, there was lumps of black rubber totally blocking the line, i had to use my air compressor to shoot it out of there. i took it for a quick run and i like the way i have some softness to the pedal now, before it was like pushing on a cinder block! so i think (touch wood) that this will sovle the problem, if nothing else it was BADLY needed anyway. I will know tomorrow when i give it a whipping driving to work and back.

about the front, when i bought the brakes and spindles i just bolted it all on without checking my offset etc, i know how to do it thanks to the idiot book and i have the chart to check it against, i will make sure thats dialed in and then check my alignment, with some luck that will let me get a little more life out of these cheap ass tires. The adjusting camber is easy with the L/P fronts as its just a matter of sliding on the right number of shims on the right sides etc.

keep your fingers crossed for me that my rear wheel is fixed now!! the brake pads were fine, plenty of meat and my drums wernt damaged at all, its gotta be this
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Old May 3rd, 2005, 03:48 PM   #25
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Great news Pete. I hope that was the problem. .......Tim
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