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Old November 6th, 2011, 07:48 PM   #26
Unkl Ian
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Default Re: My English Wheel



Verticals are 3/8" thick, fish mouthed to accept 1/2" dia axle ends.
Drilled and tapped 10-24 NC to hold axle.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 07:50 PM   #27
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Here we can see the 3 holes along the centerline
which attach the assembly to the frame.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 07:51 PM   #28
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Adapter plate. Bolts to the frame with 4 flathead cap screws.The upper yoke attaches to the adapter plate.

If any major changes were needed to correct the alignment between the upper and lower wheels,it would be a simple matter to modify or replace the adapter plate.

Welding the upper yoke in place, doesn't allow
for distortion in the frame. It is a sign of a cheap design.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 07:54 PM   #29
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The upper Yoke attached to the adapter plate.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 07:55 PM   #30
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A series of 10-24 holes were tapped before the frame was welded.
Only 4 holes are actually used. Frame is 3 1/2" square 1/4" wall tube.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 07:56 PM   #31
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10-24 flathead capscrews, 4 places.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 07:58 PM   #32
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Upper Yoke installed. Center bolt acts as a pivot,
so yoke can be rotated 90 degrees if desired.
One SHCS on each end holds the Yoke in position.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:00 PM   #33
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Upper wheel installed.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:01 PM   #34
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Upper yoke detail.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:01 PM   #35
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:02 PM   #36
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Bottom a C frame.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:03 PM   #37
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6 holes are 10-24 to support the nut mounting plate.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:05 PM   #38
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Acme screw,Bronze nut,and nut mounting plate.
The Acme screw is overkill, a large UNC screw is fine.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:12 PM   #39
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Bottom end of screw shown, the top end is flat.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:13 PM   #40
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A pair of 10-24 socket head cap screw attach the Bronze nut the the plate.
I only used a Bronze nut, because the price was right.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:14 PM   #41
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Nut mounting plate attaches to bottom of front column.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:16 PM   #42
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Bottom of 1"-5 ACME screw is turned down to fit inside the shaft
for the foot wheel.A couple 3/16" split pins hold them together.
The 1" ACME screw is overkill,but it and the matching Bronze nut was free.
1" UNC would be good. The end of the base frame is capped with
a 1/4" thick plate,tapped 1/4-20 to suit the lower bearing support.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:18 PM   #43
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Footwheel and support bearing. Balls are 3/4" diameter plastic,
which screw onto 3/8 unc x 3/4" long hex bolts. Vertical shaft
is 7/8"od 1/2"id tube. Support bearing is Bronze.
A 1/4-20 coupling nut joins it to a slotted mounting bracket.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:19 PM   #44
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A pair of 3/16" split pins join the screw to the lower shaft.



Split pins installed. One is probably enough.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:20 PM   #45
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Foot wheel is 10" OD. Front caster was offset to
the back a couple inches to allow a larger foot wheel.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 08:21 PM   #46
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http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/communit...=9970156377963
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Old November 7th, 2011, 04:52 PM   #47
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Bearing support bracket is slotted,left to right.
Bronze bushing supports lower extension shaft.
Length of 1/4-20 coupling nut was adjusted
at assembly, to locate the shaft support correctly.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 04:54 PM   #48
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Completed assembly. A couple 1/4-20 cap screws
attach the support bearing to the frame.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 04:56 PM   #49
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No hands, no balancing on one foot. The wheel is low enough that
you can adjust it with your heel on the ground. Having the knobs on
top makes them easy to find. The is still sufficient travel available,
up and down,to accommodate different diameter wheels if necessary.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 04:58 PM   #50
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Default Re: My English Wheel



Separate base. Upper frame is held by eight 1/4-20 bolts.
Rear swivel casters are double locking, front is fixed.
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