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Old November 7th, 2011, 04:59 PM   #51
Unkl Ian
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Default Re: My English Wheel



Larger tubes are 2 1/2" square, the smaller diagonals are 1".
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Old November 7th, 2011, 05:02 PM   #52
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Bare frame. Main frame is 3 1/2" sq. 1/4" wall tube,
vertical frame member is internally reinforced with a 3" OD
1/4" wall tube, because that is where the stresses are highest.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 05:03 PM   #53
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Complete assembly. Working height,approx 51".Overall height 62".
Center of the wheels,to the inside of the frame is 24"+.
One person can move the main frame,or the base,without too much difficulty.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 05:05 PM   #54
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Check alignment at final assembly.



With a flat anvil wheel on the bottom,the lower wheel should align with the upper wheel,left to right. And as the wheels are brought together,the gap should be even,
or just slightly tighter on the outboard edge. This shows a gap on the outboard side, so I will add a .005" shim,between the yoke and adapter plate.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 05:06 PM   #55
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Old toolbox to hold extra top wheels,and lower anvil wheels.



This English Wheel now lives in Dearborn Michigan.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 05:17 PM   #56
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Nice. John will put it to good use i am sure
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:32 AM   #57
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I used the same mechanicals to build a larger English Wheel for Joe Sulpy. I think the horizontal elements are 4"x4",the vertical column is 6"x10",the diagonal bracing is 2"x2" The throat is 49".
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:33 AM   #58
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The edges of the 3"x6" upper wheel were scalloped.
Makes it easier to grip when tipping flanges.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:35 AM   #59
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Quick release on lower yoke, can be operated with either hand, from any position. CCW raises the yoke, same as the foot wheel. Pneumatic Planishing Hammer hangs off the side.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:36 AM   #60
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Pneumatic Planishing Hammer, in foreground, uses a Cleco rivit gun. Lower arm is adjustable front to back,anvil holder moves up and down.Accepts CP type lower dies.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:45 AM   #61
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Throat is around 24". Vertical column is 2" square tube. Horizontal arms are 1"x2" tube. Adjustable clamp for anvil holder uses 3/4"x1 1/4" tube. Anvil holder is 1 1/4" dia Hard Chrome shaft, machined to accept .812" (CP) lower tooling. Precision ground shaft,or cold rolled mild steel, would have been fine,but the price was right.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:46 AM   #62
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This bracket drops into a tube on the side of the English Wheel.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:48 AM   #63
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Cleco rivet gun,with ball valve for on/off. First choice would be a foot controled air valve. The adjustable regulator was removed after testing. Shown with Delrin tooling, similar to the designs shown in Fay Butler's book. Delrin is great for short run tooling, won't stand up long term in this application.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:50 AM   #64
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Upper clamp, machined from a solid, hole is off center. ID was finish machined
after welding. A pair of 1/4-20 cap screws lock the gun in position.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:51 AM   #65
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Anvil holder is adjustable up and down.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 08:56 AM   #66
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Lower clamp similar to top. Machined from a solid,1 1/4" ID.
Rectangle tube is one piece of 3/4" x 1 1/2"; cut, bent, then welded.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 09:01 AM   #67
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Screw clamp on the bottom locks the assembly in place.
Anvil holder can be moved forward and back, without using any tools,
for changing tooling. The first 4"+ of the lower arm was reinforced
internally, so it won't collapse when the screw is tightened.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 09:04 AM   #68
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Default Re: My English Wheel

To change profiles, the arm is moved back, lift out the old anvil, drop in a new one, and slide the arm back into position and lock. All the lower anvils are the same height, so there is no up and down adjustment necessary when changing tools.

The 1 1/4" anvil support shaft is heavy enough that it doesn't shake in operation.

Flat upper tools are available from Yardstore.com.
Good selection, good prices, excellent service.
Lowers are available from Michigan Pneumatic,
or you can make your own.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 01:08 PM   #69
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Default Re: My English Wheel

What price range do you charge for the english wheel and such. Just trying to get an idea of tools i need to get someday soon. I would love to work metal more somewhat professionally.
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Old November 9th, 2011, 01:55 PM   #70
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Default Re: My English Wheel

I made these about 10 years ago, back when
I had an endless supply of scrap steel.

To try and sell, even the parts, now, wouldn't be practical.
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 02:11 PM   #71
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I used a 1"-5 Acme screw,and bronze nut for the first two
I did,because the price was right.It's a little quick but works fine.I wouldn't want to go any quicker.
The actual amount of load on the screw is less than 1000 lbs,so a large Acme screw is serious overkill.
But free is good.
If I had to buy everything, I'd go with a 1"-12 UNC thread.

I would suggest 3" wide wheels,upper and lower.
Equal widths is convenient for tipping flanges.
The upper wheel needs to be larger, at least double
the OD of the lower wheels. And make the yoke bolt
to the frame instead of welding them solid. One screw
in the middle is plenty. The Cheapo designs are welded solid,
so alignment is hit and miss. Usually less than ideal.
I can easily shim mine to make it perfect.
Can also rotate the wheels 90 degrees, relative to the frame.

Looking back, I still like the quick release design that I used,
it works the same with either hand, from any position;
but there is a "little bit" of machining involved.

Upper or lower adjuster ?
Lots has been written on this subject, on various
internet boards. Some people say putting the adjuster
on top allows different designs in lower arms for better
clearance on cycle fenders and stuff that wraps around.
Some even go to the trouble of bolt on lower arms.

Other say a foot adjuster is easier to use, if you
have any coordination at all, and upper adjusters are
awkward at best. I chose the lower adjuster for simplicity.
Upper adjusters are more complex, with more pieces.
Simple is good. And the ergonomics of raising your arm
way up, to make an adjustment, especially without
a quick release, makes no sense to me. Why bother ?
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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:28 PM   #72
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Part of the debate over upper and lower adjusters,
spawned the idea for a "compact lower adjuster".

One that could be made easily without a lot of pieces, or fancy machining.

Here is what I came up with:

The key component needed is for a Power Take Off drive,aka PTO,
commonly found on farm tractors.

A 1 3/8" 6 spline female to 1 3/8" 6 spline male PTO coupling:

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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:34 PM   #73
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Second choice:





You need one male, and one female.
Both halves have to have the same size spline, so they will fit together.
1 3/8" 6 spline is a common size.

The male would go on top,the flange could be cut down or removed.
The yoke would attatch to the top.

Cut the small end off the female,drill and tap for the adjusting screw.
Or drill through,and weld a nut on the bottom.

Weld the female part to the frame.The pinch bolt,with a Nylon locknut,
would allow you to adjust the clearance between the two parts.

The male element drops in from the top,the screw adjusts the working height.

Both parts shown are from http://www.surpluscenter.com
$17.00 each plus shipping.
Might be able to find them locally,at TSC stores or similar.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:35 PM   #74
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The plan is to cut it in half,the female part gets welded to the frame.
A hole gets drilled and tapped in the bottom,or a nut welded on.

The male part gets tapped on the top to attach the lower yoke,then inserted.

Detail of the female splines:



OD is around 1 3/4",internal splines are 2" long.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:36 PM   #75
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Notice how the grooves forming the male splines taper towards the top.
The straight section is a little over 2" long,we want to cut above the
straight section for maximum engagement.

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