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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:38 PM   #76
Unkl Ian
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Some peoples first impression is these components
are much too hard to be easily machined.

Not so.

A regular fine tooth blade in a reciprocating saw
had no problem cutting through this one.

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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:39 PM   #77
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Now,smooth the ends to prepare for tapping.
You could use a grinder,or file,and some patients
to get the end smooth,flat,and square.

I end faced it in the lathe,because I'm lazy.

Then drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole
in the middle to attach the lower yoke.
On blind holes like this,drill the hole deeper
than you think you need,so you don't have the
chips jamming and breaking the tap in the hole.

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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:40 PM   #78
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Default Re: My English Wheel

And the parts should fit together like this.

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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:41 PM   #79
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Could have drilled and tapped the bottom for the adjusting screw.
Chose to drill a hole,and weld a nut on,instead.

1/2" pilot hole.This stuff machines fine,it's only case hardened.

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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:42 PM   #80
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Optional extra step,end faced down to 2 1/2" long.
Bored hole to 1"

Machined matching step on a 3/4-NC hex nut.
That aligns the nut, for welding.

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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:45 PM   #81
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Optional step #2:inserted the center piece all the way,marked and end faced.

Before:


After:


This step probably removed almost 1/4" from the finished height.

Small hole in the middle is 1/4-20 to attach the lower yoke.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:48 PM   #82
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Default Re: My English Wheel

With the adjusting screw all the way down,the total length is under 4 3/4"



Screwed on the yoke from my other English Wheel,
and the distance from the center of the anvil wheel
to the bottom of the adjusting screw is around 7 1/2".



I was planning to use this adjuster with 2" anvil wheels, so the base
of the yoke could be much thinner, so save even more height.

It was very simple to make,and didn't cost much.
Nice and compact.
Even without a lathe, it wouldn't be too difficult.

There is no wobbling,that was the idea.

These components are designed to fit together "nicely",
and machined accordingly. Any slop would shorten their life
in the intended application. The fit on the domestic couplings is generally very good, some of the imported couplings fit together nicer than others.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:50 PM   #83
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Default Re: My English Wheel

A long bolt a big washer will hold the nut in position for welding.
That way the nut doesn't tip when it is tacked.





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Old February 18th, 2012, 03:58 PM   #84
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Default Re: My English Wheel

The plan was to fabricate a small hand wheel,
that would weld to the head of the bolt.
Maybe 4-5" OD. With 3 spokes.

If you wanted to get fancy, you could also weld the
female end of a 1/2" extension to the head of the bolt.
Then you could have a removable foot wheel.
Just a matter of supporting the shaft close to the floor.

A couple u-joints would allow you to offset the
foot wheel inboard, and use an angled lower arm
so you can do shapes where the typical lower
adjuster is in the way.

Maybe mount a pulley on the bottom of the adjuster
screw for a Stepper Motor ? Or maybe just a DC
gear motor like Jim Bailie's. Then you don't need a foot wheel.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 04:12 PM   #85
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Default Re: My English Wheel

I had considered building a bench top machine.

Here is a quick sketch of a rough concept.
The idea was to make a frame, from offcuts,
and pieces "too small to save".
It has to be large enough,and stiff enough,to be practical;
small enough to fit on a bench top.

It would be nice if the bare frame was light enough to ship by courier.

The horizontal,and vertical elements are 3/4" tubes.
Vertical column is straight on the inboard side,tapered on back and both sides.
Perhaps 6" sq at top and bottom,8" sq in the middle.
Diagonals might be 3/8" or 1/2".



The diagonals are oriented so that they are loaded
in tension, since materials are typically stronger in
tension than compression.

Compact lower adjuster,as outlined in earlier posts,
with a custom 4" hand wheel.
Upper wheel is a 6" x 2" caster wheel.

30" tall,24" outside to outside.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 04:13 PM   #86
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Part of the idea,in this design,is to make a complete English Wheel
without specialized machining,and use a minimum of expensive parts.

Upper and lower yokes would bolt in place.

Small hand wheels are available on Ebay,cheap.
But the hole in the hand wheel influences the size
of the screw for the adjuster. I would make one from scratch.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 04:16 PM   #87
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Default Re: My English Wheel

If it was to be a mass produced design,
then labor cost/total cost would be a bigger consideration.

Any design will be a compromise. On this one,
the main compromise is on the overall size.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 04:19 PM   #88
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Default Re: My English Wheel

If it was made from plate sections,it would look like this.
Same overall size,just different material.


Slightly heavier, a lot less work.

Reinforcements could be added inside the frame,
where needed, and the arms could be bolted on.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 04:27 PM   #89
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Default Re: My English Wheel

A closer to scale sketch,same 24" x 30" overall size.
Looks too tall to me,the working height is approx 19" above
the base. On top of a 36" tall work bench,that would end up
with a working height of 55". A little high for most people.

Ideally, the working height should be between shoulder and
elbow height. High makes it easier to see, but puts more
stress on your shoulders.

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Last edited by Unkl Ian; August 7th, 2014 at 08:47 AM.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 04:31 PM   #90
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Since it's a bench top machine,the dimension from
the bottom of the frame to the working surface is
small enough to fit inside a fender.

So the offset of the lower arm, X ,wouldn't be as critical,
as it would be if it were a full size frame. Just cantilever
the frame over the edge of the workbench.
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Old February 18th, 2012, 05:13 PM   #91
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Upper wheels:



I used 4140 for the upper wheel, it doesn't need to be hardened,
unless you are running over booger MIG welds. Same with the lowers.

The weight of the upper wheel has nothing to do with the ability
to stretch and smooth.

Jim Bailie had a bunch of material machined from his upper wheel,
making it lighter,and found it much easier to use.

My upper wheel would be lighter than it is,but I ran out of machine time.
The center web is probably 1/2" thick. 1/4" would be adequate.

There are people with much heavier upper wheels,
but they won't stretch or smooth any better based strictly on the extra weight of the upper wheel alone.

Many of the entry level machines have solid upper wheels, but this is based on the machining costs,
not a "value added" feature. Narrow wheels are common on these lower end machines, to save material costs.

A HEAVY upper wheel will work against you, because
you have to overcome the inertia of the wheel every time you want to start, stop, or change direction. Simple physics. Issac Newton figured it out.
In general,objects that have to change direction quickly are typically made with a light weight design. Some people push the "flywheel effect", to justify their heavy upper wheels, because it sounds good if you don't
think about it. They save money on machining, you have to work harder to over come the inertia.
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Last edited by Unkl Ian; February 19th, 2012 at 07:00 PM.
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Old February 19th, 2012, 06:57 PM   #92
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Default Re: My English Wheel

I use Boeshield to stop the wheels from rusting, when not in use.

http://boeshield.com/

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Old August 7th, 2014, 09:16 AM   #93
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Starting a new English Wheel design, this one a table top version.
Will post pics.
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Old August 13th, 2014, 06:11 PM   #94
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Default Re: My English Wheel

I built one. I am stopped on the base. everything else is done, just gotta build a base.
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Old August 13th, 2014, 09:34 PM   #95
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Default Re: My English Wheel

I'm gonna start machining the wheels for an english wheel in the next few months, then I hafta gather the material to build a base/frame
I have an idea on using something else as the base, after I get the wheels done, I'll see if it will work & let ya's know if it's gonna work


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Old August 16th, 2014, 08:08 AM   #96
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unkl Ian View Post
Starting a new English Wheel design, this one a table top version.
Will post pics.
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Old August 16th, 2014, 08:09 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon View Post
I built one. I am stopped on the base. everything else is done, just gotta build a base.
POINH

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Old August 19th, 2014, 05:01 PM   #98
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Default Re: My English Wheel

For my new English Wheel, I drilled and tapped 5/8 - UNC,
for the adjuster screw. Already had the tap, less welding.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Unkl Ian View Post
Could have drilled and tapped the bottom for the adjusting screw.
Chose to drill a hole,and weld a nut on,instead.

1/2" pilot hole.This stuff machines fine,it's only case hardened.

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Old November 27th, 2014, 06:40 PM   #99
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Parts:



The square plate in the foreground,
1/4" x 3 1/2" x 3 1/2", bolts to the frame,
then the upper yoke bolts to the plate.

Why ?

This makes it easy to shim the plate,
to compensate for any welding distortion
in the frame. Once it is shimmed, so the
upper and lower wheels are parallel,
the upper wheel can be positioned inline
with the frame, across the frame,
or 45 degrees either way, without having
to fuss with shims. Cheap insurance.

Some people weld the upper yoke in place.
If it isn't perfect, they are screwed.
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Last edited by Unkl Ian; November 27th, 2014 at 07:21 PM.
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Old November 27th, 2014, 06:46 PM   #100
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Default Re: My English Wheel

Lower yoke:














Upper yoke:


Splines:

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