Holley 2100 info wanted - Cut-Weld-Drive Forums

sallyandsean · October 14th, 2019, 10:02 AM

Hi guys, just picked one up but not loads over here and very little info online.

Can anyone give me the basics please. I can see how to set the idle and where the main jets are but that's about it.

The choke wasn't opening as it was catching on the little cam on the other side of the carb so I backed the screw right out and now opens freely. What is the little cam and screw for and how do I set it.

Thanks

flatheadgary · October 14th, 2019, 08:11 PM

they are holley 94's from back in the day for flathead ford motors. i have several of them and buy them whenever i see them. i have flathead ford motors and use them on vw's too. i like them. they make a lot of power and make your engine a bit louder too. just get a rebuild kit for it and it will tell you what you need to do. if you have a carb rebuilder near by, they can probably get one for you.
https://www.google.com/search?client...100+carburetor

sallyandsean · October 19th, 2019, 04:03 AM

Hooked up my fuel line but just over flowing

**V8Transporter** · October 19th, 2019, 06:35 PM

If I understand the problem, it sounds like a problem with the float,or needle and seat. If you’re running an electric fuel pump you might need an in-line pressure regulator. I run one for my 625 Edelbrock set at 2-1/2 pounds.

**alykat** · October 20th, 2019, 07:30 AM

If the carb has been sitting a while and had old gas in it, probably varnished up and made the needle /seat stick or as V8 said, stuck float. Just a quick clean up or at most an overhaul kit should set you right.

sallyandsean · October 20th, 2019, 02:06 PM

Cool

sallyandsean · October 21st, 2019, 11:36 AM

OK, gave it a clean and it fired up but spat flames out the exhaust. I hadn't hooked up the choke or blocked the heat risers from the exhaust.

flatheadgary · October 21st, 2019, 07:53 PM

sounds like timing or maybe a vacumm leak at the head.

sallyandsean · October 21st, 2019, 11:42 PM

Timing and heads fine as running perfectly on carb I just took off.

kustomkreep86 · October 22nd, 2019, 04:21 AM

Flames out the exhaust are generally a sign of running too rich. Exhaust leaks could also cause a backfire through the exhaust. If those heat risers are open, try blocking them off and see if it gets better.

sallyandsean · October 22nd, 2019, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kustomkreep86

Flames out the exhaust are generally a sign of running too rich. Exhaust leaks could also cause a backfire through the exhaust. If those heat risers are open, try blocking them off and see if it gets better.

Also didn't have the air filter on so maybe that wasn't helping. Just ordered a mushroom style filter.

sallyandsean · October 22nd, 2019, 10:12 AM

This is it on the car. Had to cut the single port manifold but seams to have sealed OK.

upload image

sallyandsean · October 22nd, 2019, 10:32 AM

Also, where should the Fast idle screw be set as its backed right out but if I screw it in it stop choke opening.

kustomkreep86 · October 22nd, 2019, 12:06 PM

Not having the heat risers functioning could cause a rich condition as well. Without the heat riser heating the the intake runner, the fuel can't atomize properly. When the engine is running, the intake directly under the carb gets super cold. I ran into that problem with a plugged heat riser tube. Mine was like ice cold. The cold air will cause the fuel to become dense and make big droplets rather than nice vapor of fuel.

sallyandsean · October 23rd, 2019, 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kustomkreep86

Not having the heat risers functioning could cause a rich condition as well. Without the heat riser heating the the intake runner, the fuel can't atomize properly. When the engine is running, the intake directly under the carb gets super cold. I ran into that problem with a plugged heat riser tube. Mine was like ice cold. The cold air will cause the fuel to become dense and make big droplets rather than nice vapor of fuel.

I have a 12v manifold heater I'm going to fit to cure this. I have had it running but can't figure out how the fast idle cam is supposed to be working or what position to the screw to it should be.

sallyandsean · October 23rd, 2019, 05:09 AM

This is its first start up

https://youtu.be/Xzi4BNIRMCA

sallyandsean · October 23rd, 2019, 09:51 AM

This is how it is now but not sure if correct

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**SCOTTRODS** · October 23rd, 2019, 04:40 PM

Only problem I see is the hose is gonna rub the pulley... Looks like it runs nice from the Vid though...Considering.

sallyandsean · October 24th, 2019, 04:05 AM

I have moved the pipe now. I haven't made a support bracket for the carb yet but if I push the carb with my fingers the car stalls.

**V8Transporter** · October 24th, 2019, 09:15 PM

Engine sounds good. Once you ‘fine tune it she’s going to be a great ride. 👍

sallyandsean · October 25th, 2019, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V8Transporter

Engine sounds good. Once you ‘fine tune it she’s going to be a great ride. 👍

How do I fine tune it. At the moment it's a little rich but can't figure out how to lean it out.

kustomkreep86 · October 25th, 2019, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sallyandsean

How do I fine tune it. At the moment it's a little rich but can't figure out how to lean it out.

Yeah sounds like it's running good from your video. For the fine tuning you can start with the idle mixture screws. That's the first and easiest place to start. If you're still too rich after that then you need to start looking into jets and all that fun stuff in the carb.

I've never had the chance to play with one of these carbs, and I'm not sure if the procedure is the same, but this procedure applies to most idle mixture screws.

Warm up the engine and make sure the choke is fully open. Hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum.
Turn off the engine.
Turn both idle mixture crews in until they lightly bottom out.
Turn each one out one and a half turns. It it won't start and run, turn the mixture screws out more. Make sure you do the same amount for each screw.
Start the car back up and set your idle speed using the idle speed screw.
Adjust the idle mixture screws the same amount, I usually start with half turn on each one, until you have the highest vacuum you can get.
Then readjust your idle speed with the idle speed screw.

sallyandsean · October 25th, 2019, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kustomkreep86

Yeah sounds like it's running good from your video. For the fine tuning you can start with the idle mixture screws. That's the first and easiest place to start. If you're still too rich after that then you need to start looking into jets and all that fun stuff in the carb.

I've never had the chance to play with one of these carbs, and I'm not sure if the procedure is the same, but this procedure applies to most idle mixture screws.

Warm up the engine and make sure the choke is fully open. Hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum.
Turn off the engine.
Turn both idle mixture crews in until they lightly bottom out.
Turn each one out one and a half turns. It it won't start and run, turn the mixture screws out more. Make sure you do the same amount for each screw.
Start the car back up and set your idle speed using the idle speed screw.
Adjust the idle mixture screws the same amount, I usually start with half turn on each one, until you have the highest vacuum you can get.
Then readjust your idle speed with the idle speed screw.

Cool, thanks

**alykat** · October 27th, 2019, 07:14 AM

Great explanation KK !