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Old November 9th, 2004, 04:46 AM   #26
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Man, alot more people doing alot more radical modifications nowadays. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img] Competition [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]


Sounds kind of similar to mine too:


Once you're getting into alot of chassis mods, doing an extra step won't be as difficult (same reason why I dropped my body as well).

Might as well put this here for future purposes. Here's how I did with my pedals, I cut the bottom of the tunnel, bent it down then boxed it up:


So it's lowered the same amount as my pans/body. Used one of those sandrail plates (thought up cutting and relocating the stock mounts but they're only $10) and welded that to the pans.



How the bottom looks finished. I'll probably run some thick gauge plate under this section once done just in case.


------------------------------------------------------------

Another easier to lower the car and not lose any headroom is to channel the body as usual and make a dropped box section around the seat area. So you'll only be dropping the seat rail section, not the entire pans.
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Old November 9th, 2004, 04:46 AM   #27
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Dan, I was thinking along the same lines. I tried to come up with a way to modify the pedals, but coulldn't get around the lack of mechanical advantage one would have when trying to operate them (fun for the clutch, I'm sure), so I thought of leaving them in place, and creating a platform for my feet. My concern was then about comfort of sitting like that. Not that the car is going to be a long-distance tourer, but too much time behind the wheel may lead to leg cramps or something weird.

I'll update when I figure something out. Gotta do it on the cheap!
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Old November 9th, 2004, 04:53 AM   #28
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WURD!
thanks for the pics.
That heater vent looks funny abandoned down there.

Sounds like everyone is underway with their shite! Cool.

I'll be doing the channeling as well, but I actually prefer the higher (stock height)floor for my project. My pans are solid (yay AZ!), so I'll only take the outside lip off, and make a patch panel to attach it to the heater channels. I don't want to deal with dropping the entire floor, making new pedal mounts, etc. At that point, I think I'd be leaning toward a tube frame.

I thought there would be drama back by the rear body mounts. I'll have to raise the ones that are in the wheel well (they needed to be widened due to the slightly narrowed rear), but I cut the inner mounts out when I took out the rear package tray/ firewall.

Since I want to have my head/ face squarely in the window/ windshield I'll take a few measurements. I may not channel it to the top of the heater channels, I'll only go as far as I need to bring the windows down to me. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

I'll slip the body over the pan, raise it to where I need it, then weld the mounts on.

Unibody, here I come.

Grizant- let's see those pics. Sounds like our 'leatherman' cars are moving along...
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Old November 9th, 2004, 05:10 AM   #29
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oh, and rob, thanx for the pix....the labels on the floor pans are a real cool touch [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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Old November 9th, 2004, 05:38 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nick@Nov 9 2004, 05:46 AM
Man, alot more people doing alot more radical modifications nowadays. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img] Competition [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

<div align="right">Quoted post</div>

Hell, I'm just trying to keep up with you guys!

Joining this site was the best thing I ever did for that project. It got me fired up to try and contribute so I had to start cutting. I love the fabrication of my projects, it's usually the actual "finish" work that I never do so well. You know, paint, interior, etc. I won't have to worry about that with this one! I'm contemplating not even grinding down the welds. Why? Who cares!

I'll take some pics tonight after work and get them up tomorrow. Mine is a variation on a theme at this point, but it's a little bit different on how the channels drop down.

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Old November 9th, 2004, 09:11 PM   #31
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Ok after my measuring/research/brainstorming I came up with this for my car. It may help you. You can only channel the car 5" before the top of the engine compartment will hit a 36 horse fanshroud. You may be able to get more from a slant top shroud. Limitless with a t-3 shroud. Also your pedals will hit the bottom of the dash over 5" unless you get more creative. (maybe mount underdash pedals that are shortened?). You can retain the heater channnells(hold alot of strength in the body), by combining sectioning with channeling and keeping the sectioning look.

Trim 5" put of the body above the heater chanels in the front quarter, middle of the doors(between hinges) and rear qtr panels right above the heaterchanels. If you trim the skin of the body about a half inch back you can them weld the sectioned piece back on the botom below pan so that it apears the same length. Think kinda like ground affects in disquise. The doors will clear if you trim that lip off the pan. Sorry If I can't make it more visual. If you need a better explanation call me up 916 717 4259 after 7 or anytime durring the weekend. Be aware of the rear wheel wells. I still havnt figured out which way I am going. You have to have some really offset wheels for the back or they will hit. You may have to widen the rear track.
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Old November 9th, 2004, 10:47 PM   #32
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[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img] ive needed this thread for a while.

i think this'll be a cut, stand back... and cut some more type of job, makeing it up as you go.

just keep posting pictures!


for widening the rear track, could you use bus axels on a bug box?



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Old November 10th, 2004, 04:08 AM   #33
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Ta-da!

[attachmentid=2633]

Until I upload these onto the net, I'll have to break this down into multiple posts. I'll fix this when I get the pics up.

The dropped heater channel mount:
[attachmentid=2634]

I have to drill the holes out yet, but I'm waiting until I get everything fitted. At this point, most parts are just tacked (except the boxed mount which is fully welded).

[attachmentid=2635]

Shot of the rear mounting tab for the heater channel. A hole will be drilled in this to make up for the hole that was lost when I cut 4" off the rear bulkhead mounting.

[attachmentid=2636]

[attachmentid=2637]

Like I said, I'll edit these posts and consolidate them into one post once I get these uploaded to the net. Sorry for the multiples, but I thought you might want to see this.

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smokin.gif[/img]
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Old November 10th, 2004, 04:36 AM   #34
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[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img] Awesome work Griznant! You guys are gonna make me have to do some work soon....thanks!
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Old November 10th, 2004, 04:46 AM   #35
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I merged the posts for you (FYI). Also I added this topic to the search thread.

So far looks very similar to my job. Can't believe you did that to an Oval window though [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/yelling.gif[/img]



















What, you couldn't find a split window [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
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Old November 10th, 2004, 05:23 AM   #36
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i think the body drop is the least of your worries... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img] jk. right on bud!
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Old November 10th, 2004, 05:58 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by Griznant@Nov 10 2004, 05:08 AM
[attachmentid=2635]

Shot of the rear mounting tab for the heater channel. A hole will be drilled in this to make up for the hole that was lost when I cut 4" off the rear bulkhead mounting.
I was working on my ride last night and scoping a few things out:
The back end of the body going to take some work at the torsion section.

The sheetmetal there goes from quarter panel to fender mounting surface to wheel well. It'll have to be cut out and replaced with something fabricated. You can't just move that section of sheetmetal up because of the aforementioned curves.

I've got to be able to get to the rear torsion housing for servicing, lowering, etc... Luckly, I don't have the crazy-long IRS version. That's huge.
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Old November 10th, 2004, 06:08 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nick@Nov 10 2004, 05:46 AM
I merged the posts for you (FYI). Also I added this topic to the search thread.

So far looks very similar to my job. Can't believe you did that to an Oval window though [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/yelling.gif[/img]


What, you couldn't find a split window [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
If I had one that was as rusty as this junker I would have done it. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

When I saw the pics of yours yesterday I was like, "Wow, two people with the same idea, it MUST be the right one!" [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]




BTW, thanks for merging the pics. I appreciate it!
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Old November 10th, 2004, 10:52 AM   #39
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Also as a note, not sure if it's necessary??? I put square tubing across the dropped floor pans as it sits below the tunnel now. Keep it from flexing too much or something? Needed, [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Idunno.gif[/img] but doesn't take too long to do just in case




Also for (future member's) reference, here's the dropped pans (left) compared to stock pans (right)
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Old November 10th, 2004, 10:58 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nick@Nov 10 2004, 11:52 AM


sassy! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]

looks good.
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Old November 12th, 2004, 05:28 PM   #41
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Incredible work... I am posting in the presence of greatness....
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Old November 12th, 2004, 05:54 PM   #42
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I was always under the impression that the term "BodyDrop" referred to Uni-bodied cars such as hondas and just got reassigned to everything else that had some work done to the body in order to lower it.
I thought it on;y reffered to taking the strut mounts and cutting them loose and welding them up a little higher and that was all.

Anyway awesome work guys can't wait to see them actually driven. Especially Nick, I can't see you doing anything but lying down Formula Vee style to drive that thing. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
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Old November 17th, 2004, 05:57 AM   #43
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Here's the part I was talking about:


This section needs to be raised because it goes right over the torsion assembly. You can't follow the wheel well because it needs to go straight up. It won't be the most attractive answer, but I guess I'll just cut it out and weld in a section of 3" tube or something.
I prefer the angles that the quarter-to-fender mount have, but without a beadroller, I don't think I can make that.
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Old November 17th, 2004, 06:41 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jon@Nov 12 2004, 10:54 PM
Nick, I can't see you doing anything but lying down Formula Vee style to drive that thing. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
its alright jon.... he is small [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
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Old November 17th, 2004, 07:45 AM   #45
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oldskool,

I'm in the thick of this right now with the rear quarters. I'm shortening them up to fit the roof (decided not to shorten the chassis) so I think I can buy back some space that way. Coupled with the 2" sectioning job I did to the bottom of the car, I think it will be an interesting area to try and fix.

I'll post once I figure it out. I sectioned a door last night, and that was a crap-load of fun (NOT).
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Old November 17th, 2004, 08:04 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by Griznant@Nov 17 2004, 08:45 AM
oldskool,

I'm in the thick of this right now with the rear quarters.  I'm shortening them up to fit the roof (decided not to shorten the chassis) so I think I can buy back some space that way.  Coupled with the 2" sectioning job I did to the bottom of the car, I think it will be an interesting area to try and fix.

I'll post once I figure it out.  I sectioned a door last night, and that was a crap-load of fun (NOT).
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I've been staring at the pic for a bit now...
There are 2 bends on that fender mounting point. One inner- near the wheel well-- and one outer- near the quarter.
If I make the cut straight up from where it is now, it looks like I may be able to keep the outer bend intact. It looks like it might end up where that fender bolt hole was... But I don't think that's going to work for you with a 2" section.
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Old November 17th, 2004, 12:08 PM   #47
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Ya, forgo tabot that rear body mount/shock area. WHich also reminds me, if you section the body the rear quarter panels ovsioulsy would need to be sectioned as well. But by doing this the rear wheels gets tucked in more then before. Just something to keep in mind especially if you're running fenders, even if it's fenderless as well. I'll probably end up making a new set of quarter panels and/or widen the rear tracks to extend outside the body.
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Old November 19th, 2004, 12:37 PM   #48
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>I removed the rear luggage shelf [/b][/quote]

Hi everyone, I've juste started today to raise the body to work on that channeling (4 inches), and I'planning to remove this part soon, (there's no big problems to make the appropriate modifications on the front),

but I was wondering how to make sure that the body stay rigid enough while removing the rear luggage shelf,wich apparently derserves to strenghten it.
I'm gonna weld tubes to keep rigidity before cutting, but once the lower corners are 4 inches up there shall be no real flat area on the sides to weld it back on properly with the same rigidity...

Grant,Nick... you both seemed to have cut the entire body sections on the sides, but I'd like to keep the heater channels like they are;

Would any member have plans to make it remains rigid enough?
(a lot of the weight of the body is supported by this section) Shall we weld plates on the sides to avoid torsions etc....


Well I tried explain myself so that you understand everything, if something ain't clear tell me I'll try again with a dictionnary [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
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Old November 19th, 2004, 04:37 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally posted by Romain+Nov 19 2004, 05:37 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Romain @ Nov 19 2004, 05:37 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'> but I was wondering how to make sure that the body stay rigid enough while removing the rear luggage shelf,wich apparently derserves to strenghten it.
[/b]


Just weld angle irons or tubes in the inner panel to keep it from flexing. But if the body will remain on the pans while it's being cut and rewelded it probably wouldn't be really needed since the heater channels will keep it alligned correctly.

<!--QuoteBegin-Romain
@Nov 19 2004, 05:37 PM
Would any member have plans to make it remains rigid enough?
(a lot of the weight of the body is supported by this section) Shall we weld plates on the sides to avoid torsions etc....
[/quote]

I'll assume you're talking about the rear luggage area? As long as luggage area is welded back on it, that should be good enough (as good as stock). You still have the roof, 'B' pillar and other areas to keep the body from flexing anyways. Unless you're doing some slalom racing or anything major like that, I wouldn't worry too much about extra reinforcement. The only real concern I'd have is welding things back to keep the doors from opening/closing correctly once rewelded back together. But really as long as the body is bolted back onto the same holes on the heater channel everthing will be as back to stock anyways so wouldn't worry too much about inner bracing/alignment issues. At least that's my opinion.

I didn't put any temporary bracing when I worked on my car, I had everything planned out and was ready to weld some in until I realized by the time I was done everything would be in different places and will be making custom doors/doorframes anyways so allignment isn't an issue with me.
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Old December 14th, 2004, 06:35 AM   #50
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Just to keep this alive and for future reference, I'll take some pics while I'm doing mine--- so we have different methods to look at.

Most of the guys wanted to lower their floor, but I didn't want to drop the pedal cluster on mine... so I'm dropping the body around the stock-height floor.

My body has been narrowed (a-la Leatherman chop), so the front bulkhead has been removed in a large chunk. This seemed like a decent width to trim the front bulk head. I also took measurements of the rear bulkhead and trimmed about 1" off it as well.

On the body, I cut off the heater tube (under the seat) and removed the remaining rear wheelhouse/ body mount.

We then removed the front axle and tried to slide the chassis thru the body like a cassette, but it was just too wide (especially around the B pillar). So I cut the pans in half the long way. This let the body slide on easliy. I'll have to re-weld the pans later, but it will be a much better fit. It's a good thinkg I 'restored' and painted this pan about a month ago!

Here's a pic, I'll get more later. This is simply mocked up, there is nothing welded yet. If you look close, you can see the bump in the firewall is offset a few inches. I'll return with more info.


Compare THIS:


to THIS:
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