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Old April 25th, 2005, 05:26 PM   #1
Jon
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I figure it couldn't hurt to have a post for these sorta things.
I'll go first with the ones that come to mind.

First.

I have found that a self punching center punch works really good for bumping the really small high points in sheetmetal once to get to the blocking stage and find them. If there nothing behind the panel it just puts the slightest dimple but it will bump the high spot down just enough usually. It does work well with a dolly as well but will leave deeper dimple. You ge a feel for it pretty quick. I was very happy with this discovery today. Don't know if anyone else has ever done so but it worked great and quick.
The only improvement I could see would be cutting the tip down to just a flat head instead of the point. I bought it from harbour freight for like $2 so anyone could afford to get more than one and eperiment with them.

Second.

I have Bicycle water bottle holder mounted to the wall in my garage. I sue it exlusively for holding my propane torch. The bottle fits perfectly in it and its always upright whenever I need it. Much better than being on a shelf and I can put it back while its hot and not worry about burning anything as i can just point it away from everything.
Get one from Target, or a bike shop but they are usually more expesnive thereand theres really no reason to pay more for this. I got mine from a bike I grabbed out of the trash and chopped. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Ok I got it started now go for it people.
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Old April 25th, 2005, 06:09 PM   #2
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this has nothing to do with vw's but im sure it will help someone with kids out
i got my son one of those power wheels 4 wheelers for his 2nd birthday and it got absolutely no traction
i live in the country with gravel roads everywhere
so i took an old tire off my banshee and cut it up and screwed it to the plastic tires
on my sons
i have a hill out back of my swimming pool thats about 45 degree angle and 4 foot high he can climb straight up it now
i am going to try a mountain bike tire cause the banshee tire is really thick and i can tell its a really rough ride for him
my son is nuts on that thing he tried jumpin it off the end of my porch the other day and flipped it over and busted his gums on the handle bars
ive never seen a 2 year old try crazy shit like he does
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Old April 25th, 2005, 10:47 PM   #3
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Having trouble with installing those valve guides in your heads?

Freeze them in Co2 or liquid nitrogen and just drop them in. It's that simple.


Hey I can't get the gears on my crank shaft man...

Well sonny, boil it in oil for about 10 minutes and it will just fall on there. Don't forget which way it goes.


My pushrod tubes are leaking and I just installed them, used.

Did you put the handle of a small screwdriver in each end and wiggle and pull the ends out just alittle bit? No? Well junior if you are going to reuse those things you need to stretch whats been compressed so they can be compressed again and hold tight. Oh, don't forget a lite coat of black, liquid, Permatex on each tube seal b4 the install. On the outside where it hits the case and on the pushrod tube just b4 you put that rubber thing on your tube. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]

Just a couple of old tricks. Not my old girlfriends either [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/fingerclear.gif[/img]

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Old April 26th, 2005, 10:06 AM   #4
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On the crankshaft thing...

I froze my crank while heating up the gear in oil. Was a suggestion from a book I read and worked great.
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Old April 27th, 2005, 08:56 AM   #5
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Use spark plug wire looms to hang your pinstriping brushes. Clip the handle in and let them hang bristle side down. I put a screw through the loom into the side of my case, so they don't get fucked up and stay nice...
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Old April 27th, 2005, 07:22 PM   #6
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heres a trick for removing stripped head phillips head screws works about 1/2 the time.
grab some comet spit on the end of the phillips head screw driver coat it in the comet and retry it . I cant explain why it works it just does has saved me more that a few times. try it next time before you break out the drill.
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Old April 28th, 2005, 12:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jon@Apr 25 2005, 05:26 PM
I figure it couldn't hurt to have a post for these sorta things.
I'll go first with the ones that come to mind.

First.

I have found that a self punching center punch works really good for bumping the really small high points in sheetmetal once to get to the blocking stage and find them. If there nothing behind the panel it just puts the slightest dimple but it will bump the high spot down just enough usually. It does work well with a dolly as well but will leave deeper dimple. You ge a feel for it pretty quick. I was very happy with this discovery today. Don't know if anyone else has ever done so but it worked great and quick.
The only improvement I could see would be cutting the tip down to just a flat head instead of the point. I bought it from harbour freight for like $2 so anyone could afford to get more than one and eperiment with them.

Second.

I have Bicycle water bottle holder mounted to the wall in my garage. I sue it exlusively for holding my propane torch. The bottle fits perfectly in it and its always upright whenever I need it. Much better than being on a shelf and I can put it back while its hot and not worry about burning anything as i can just point it away from everything.
Get one from Target, or a bike shop but they are usually more expesnive thereand theres really no reason to pay more for this. I got mine from a bike I grabbed out of the trash and chopped. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Ok I got it started now go for it people.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>

Jon , thats fucking great!! I've needed that water bottle holder trick more than once while heat shrinking metal and needed to put the torch down. I think if I ever get the time I'm gonna add one to my welding cart.

Lets keep this thread alive, When I've had some sleep I'll add a few.The guy we need to share is Walt!! I'm sure he's got some good ones!!
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Old April 28th, 2005, 06:16 AM   #8
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When installing one piece windows use slightly bent thick cardboard (inserted from the bottom) to hold in the scrapers while the glue dries....
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Old April 28th, 2005, 07:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by toddgsanford@Apr 27 2005, 08:22 PM
heres a trick for removing stripped head phillips head screws works about 1/2 the time.
grab some comet spit on the end of the phillips head screw driver coat it in the comet and retry it . I cant explain why it works it just does has saved me more that a few times. try it next time before you break out the drill.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>

Works well with valve lapping compound... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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Old April 28th, 2005, 07:23 AM   #10
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Also, when working on your car in a driveway, set the ebrake! Unless you want to run yourself over... Don't ask [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/imwithstupid.gif[/img] It wasn't me... really [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wacko.gif[/img]
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Old April 28th, 2005, 07:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1slo3@Apr 28 2005, 08:23 AM
Also, when working on your car in a driveway, set the ebrake! Unless you want to run yourself over... Don't ask [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/imwithstupid.gif[/img] It wasn't me... really [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wacko.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>

Always block it too. Never trust just the ebrake...
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Old April 28th, 2005, 03:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by RATRODVW+Apr 28 2005, 07:30 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RATRODVW @ Apr 28 2005, 07:30 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-1slo3@Apr 28 2005, 08:23 AM
Also, when working on your car in a driveway, set the ebrake! Unless you want to run yourself over... Don't ask [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/imwithstupid.gif[/img] It wasn't me... really [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wacko.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>

Always block it too. Never trust just the ebrake...
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
[/b][/quote]

in the front and the back of the tire too. No matter what way u think the car will roll.A kid died at school because of that about 7 years ago
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Old April 28th, 2005, 04:10 PM   #13
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Never leave the key in the ignition. A friend of mine was listening to his radio while working on his brakes .... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Idunno.gif[/img]
Anyway, when he went to tighten the axle nut down he didn't have the emergency brake on and his car started up. So he had to chase it down and jump in it before it ran out into traffic. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]

Ever know one of those people who always has these ridiulous things happen to them and its amazing they survived ? Well this guy is one of them.
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Old April 28th, 2005, 04:21 PM   #14
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Find a mate that loves ACVW's...Nice thread...Donald
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Old April 28th, 2005, 06:13 PM   #15
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on my son's powerwheels gator for traction i cut an old big semi truck tire tube the width of the gator tire,looks like a wide rubberband any way just slip over rear wheels and the spinning stops................................traction begins
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Old April 28th, 2005, 07:01 PM   #16
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I'd use one of those smiley face things...but none of 'em have gray hair...
you young guys probaly know all these, just some that enabled me to fix'em and keep driving 'em cheeeep...

Tranny gone? put her in gear, she just squats, won't move? pop your hubcaps and look for shiny metallic shavings around the axle nut...it's too loose and has took the splines out of the hub. rear hub is alot cheaper than a tranny.

same with that shift rod support...stuck in a gear and won't come out....pop the shifter and use your 1/2 or 2/4 ratchet to shift and "git'er home". and if you don't have access to tools to cut, replace and weld in a new support? drill a hole on each side of the tunnel and use all thread bent into a slight "v" to support the shift rod....a bit sloppy but it works. I bought the cleanest 66 from a guy that was insistent that the shift fork broke....and he had already taken the shifter out! So I paid him $125....hooked up the bar, used the trick above and sold her 4 days later for $600...oh yeah, that was in 1976.

you just parked her, all is good, go to start her again...no go! checked all the connections, lots of new stuff...battery, coil, etc......try your headlight switch. I've had them go out with the car just sitting, lights off...one of those things that just happens and with a vw's starter current going thru the switch....makes you pull your hair out.

throttle cable breaks at midnight, blowing snow, and is she pissed! set your idle screw high(in), or flip the fast idle cam over to hold the throttle open, nurse it home. and that clutch cable? start her in 2nd or 3rd, use those rpms and a fine ear to slip it up and down the gears. kinda fun, may not want to fix it right away....

and everybody knows about the dum dum on the starter bolt, starting her with the license plate light....and how to drive home when that idle injection tube(the little faucet shaped thingie that hangs in the middle of those solex carbs...)decides to take the plunge into your heads and barrels.....
oh and, if you find one of those 36 horse engines that has funny looking heads with 2 tiny intake ports, dual carbs, beautiful fuel lines, banjo fittings and a nifty oil filter cannister on the shroud? don't, I repeat, don't sell it for $125 like I did in 1976, thinking I did good because I only had $25 in the whole car. By the way, the guy who bought it told me it ran great, pulling 70 in third..........
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Old April 28th, 2005, 09:51 PM   #17
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Not all VW related...but not all the cars I've worked on are VW so meh..

On FWD cars, when doing the lower balljoint - if you can't push the spring up far enough to get bolts in for the balljoint, put a pipe (jack handle works great) between the CV shaft center and the lower A-arm...worked in a minute on my '90 nissan (after I fucked around with jacking up the detached hub assembly for 45 mins attempting to do the same damn thing)

Running engine, locked drum?
drive the vehicle up on a sturdy trailer (you'll see why in a second). Jack up the side with the locked drum, remove wheel, spin lug nuts back on loosely (if studs hold drum on). Block/jackstand that side of the axle anyway, but keep the jack there. Take the other side, run chains over the top of the axle close to the diff on that side and chain/winch the wheel as tightly to the trailer as you possibly can, then lift the jack another inch or two. Hop in, warm up engine, do a few high-rev clutch dumps in your lowest gear. Once you've got the drum broke loose, get an assistant to spray it with a garden hose (it will get glowing red hot if you don't) and spin up to about 50 MPH for a few minutes to get everything nice and free, then pull the drum and empty out the various rust/debris/rat shit/shavings, reinstall drum and drive.

Oh, and if its old - careful about those asbestos brake pads.

Stuck bolt/stud?
Heat up the surrounding metal red hot (this works even better if you can get at the backside), take a slim candle (thin white ones work best) and press it into the base of the threads. This works because it "wicks" wax into the area between the nut/stud and threaded base, and lowers the friction between the two surfaces, which sometimes makes it easier to get things out.

Remember that rust never forms on the tension surface of threaded hardware - it always forms on the backside. Another old trick on very rusted parts is to get the area red hot, then press a block of ice into it. The rapid expansion/contraction forced by thermal change will sometimes break the rust on the backside of the threads.

Rapid heating/cooling can also shrink metal for when you're massaging sheetmetal into something useful (or pounding out dents)

To bevel sheetmetal to flush-mount hardware, get the hardware you want to use, put a nut behind the metal (one that's deeper than the hardware) and use a punch to push the hardware flush with the sheetmetal. Viola - sunk recesses for flush-mount bolts/screws.

a 3/8" craftsman ratchet handle works great as a makeshift clutch-alignment tool.
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Old April 29th, 2005, 08:37 AM   #18
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Got an old paint job, and can't tell what it is?

take a grey scuff pad, and lightly sand the paint in a hidden spot. If it comes up the color of the car it's a single stage. If it comes up chalky white, it's a clearcoat.

Having a problem with clear yellowing when spraying over white?

Take a few drops of a compatible single stage white, and drop them in the cup....Gone!

If you go to a paint store to pick out a color, ALWAYS LOOK AT IT OUTSIDE. Flourescent lights have different color spectrums, and can throw the cast of a color waaaayyy off.

Keep a book of matches in your glove box if you still have points. The cover is roughly the right gap. It'll get you home...

...and speaking of points, don't forget to lube the rubbing block in the distributor. If you don't, you'll wear out points very fast.

Having problems getting a hard to reach screw to start? Dip the end of your screwdriver in some silicone, then stick the screw to the tip...

If drilling a hole through carpet, take a sharp razor blade, make a small slit, and stick a piece of tube that's slightly larger ID than the bit. You won't snag the carpet, and rip it up in chunks...

Use tape to mark the depth of a hole you want to drill on the bit.

If you run an unbaffled stinger, carry a rag with you, and stuff it in the exhaust when you park to keep cool air from warping anything. Not likely to happen, but better safe then sorry. Plus it's cool to shoot it out when you start the car... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

When drilling fiberglass or plastic, tape the area you want to drill or cut to keep it from splitting and chewing up around the edges.

If you are using a master cylinder that has a seperate resevoir, make sure you have the right rubber line connecting the two. Most people replace it with fuel line, and it will swell shut, causing all kinds of problems.

Do NOT use Etch prime over old paint. Trust me.

I know...pretty basic stuff, but somebody may not know it...I'll think of more...
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Old April 29th, 2005, 08:53 AM   #19
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An obvious one,

When using paint stripper on flat areas, put a nice thick layer on and cover with flexible plastic wrap, like mask-out plastic.... just lightly press the plastic onto the wet surface...
...this then stops the paint stripper from drying out, so therefore keeps eating the paint away. You don't have to repeat layers of stripper again and again...as it usually strips all the paint off first time. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img]
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Old April 29th, 2005, 08:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by squidfire@Apr 29 2005, 09:53 AM
An obvious one,

When using paint stripper on flat areas, put a nice thick layer on and cover with flexible plastic wrap, like mask-out plastic.... just lightly press the plastic onto the wet surface...
...this then stops the paint stripper from drying out, so therefore keeps eating the paint away. You don't have to repeat layers of stripper again and again...as it usually strips all the paint off first time. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>

I was gonna use that one...

Most chemical strippers also say to brush it on one way, not back and forth... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 12:25 PM   #21
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When the wife/GF/spouse/mistress is upset about you spending too much time with your beloved VW, flip her over and lick the back of her knees. She'll forget about being upset at you in no time.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 06:13 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by RATRODVW+Apr 28 2005, 11:30 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RATRODVW @ Apr 28 2005, 11:30 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-1slo3@Apr 28 2005, 08:23 AM
Also, when working on your car in a driveway, set the ebrake! Unless you want to run yourself over... Don't ask [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/imwithstupid.gif[/img] It wasn't me... really [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wacko.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>

Always block it too. Never trust just the ebrake...
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
[/b][/quote]


and never trust you wife not to run into your car [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
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Old May 3rd, 2005, 07:27 PM   #23
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Just found this info out.

How to remove chrome:
Use an acid solution consisting of 2 parts water to 1 part muriatic or hydrochloric acid. ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. Chrome plate can also be buffed or blasted off.
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Old May 3rd, 2005, 08:57 PM   #24
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1. an easier less messy way to but gears on the crank. just throw the 2 gears on an oven burner for about 3-5 minutes. dont mes with the crank.

p.s. make sure you put the main bearing on first because its not a split one.

2. if you have a mainshaft from a tranny laying around, grind off the splines. it makes a good tool to install piston pins and remove them.

3. Don't eat sushi before going to the gym. all you taste is fish the whole time your trying to be intense. hehehe.
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Old May 9th, 2005, 09:00 AM   #25
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You know those little white packets that come in electronic and photo equipment, and medication, (silica gel/crystal packages)well they are great for keeping moisture out of your tool boxes. I even put a few of the bigger ones in a zipper seal plastic bag with my MIG welding wire spools to keep the wire from rusting. Works great!
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